Product Focus - Taylor Pontoon Fender

Looking for a better option to protect your pontoon?

Here is brief Product Focus Presentation on Tayor Made Pontoon Fenders.

Winter - A Time to Take Stock

Here we are in the middle of a cold and snowy winter. Although I am sure you need no reminder of that. Just look outside your window. The view is probably much like what we see.

This time of year it’s fun to dream of warmer days aboard your boat. And although your boat is likely tucked away until spring, now is a good time to evaluate what is needed for the upcoming boating season. For instance:

- Does the boat require any maintenance? What about the trailer?
- What new gadgets are you thinking of adding?
- Are all the water toys in good working order and will they be ready to go once the summer fun begins?
- Are you planning any boating trips? If so, do you have charts of the new waters where you will be heading?
- What about your boat insurance?

Boat insurance? I know what you are thinking. Boat insurance is not something that tingles the boating imagination. However, now is a great time to consider if you are adequately covered should an unfortunate situation occur.

Here are some things to consider:

Liability – Are your limits high enough to protect you and your passengers should an accident or incident occur involving your boat? Even if your boat’s wake causes damage on shore, you could be liable.

Boat Value – If you have not updated your insurance for several years, you could be paying too much. Your boat has likely lost value over time and could possibly be insured for less. Or, ask your agent about an Agreed Value insurance policy. An Agreed Value is a value of your boat determined and agreed upon by both owner and insurance underwriter at the time the policy is purchased.

Deductibles – Are you able to afford slightly more out of pocket in the event of a loss? If so, you can lower your premiums with a higher deductible.

Personal Property Coverage – Your boat is insured, but what about the GPS Chartplotter, the brand new $600 wakeboard, and the new stereo system with subwoofer, amp, and tower speakers that you just added. Have you really taken the time to calculate all of the extra items that you keep aboard your boat? The amount might surprise you.

Navigational Area Coverage – When you first got your boat trailering to local inland lakes was your typical boating experience, but now you are keeping it at a marina at the Jersey Shore. Are you adequately covered to boat in a coastal environment?

Diminishing Deductibles - This new coverage option from BoatUS automatically discounts your deductible by 25% each year you remain claims free! Once your deductible reaches $0, it stays that way as long as you remain claims-free and insure your boat with BoatUS.

These are just a few of the many things to consider when comparing boat insurance policies. Do yourself, your family, and your boat a favor this off-season by taking stock of your insurance needs. It will provide the peace of mind necessary to enjoy all of those other fun activities of boating.

Here are some insurance providers that specialize in boat insurance. They all offer free quotes. Contact each of them to compare.

NBOA (National Boat Owners Association)
1-800-248-3512
http://www.nboat.com/

Boat US
1-800-804-2628
http://www.boatus-insurance.com/

Boater’s Choice
1-800-768-2121
http://www.boaterschoiceinsurance.com/

Naming Your Boat

So, you got yourself a new boat and have finally decided on a name for her. Great! But, should you just plop that name on the transom and call it a day? What about simply bringing aboard items that have the boat’s name on them? Well, unless you want to anger the Gods of the Sea and Winds, you might be best advised to read on, Captain!

Since the beginning of time, mariners have known that to properly name a boat you must follow the rules of the sea. If one doesn’t abide, Legend has it that he’d surely be struck with nothing but bad luck aboard the ship. Most importantly, this means registering your boat’s name in Poseidon’s (or Neptune’s) Ledger of the Deep. Once registered in the Ledger, you are free to sail (or motor) with fair winds and passage.

This is all accomplished through the Naming Ceremony (or Renaming, if the boat currently has a name). Now there is an actual turn of phrase to follow, but the basic concept is that you are asking permission from Poseidon to name your boat (or remove an old name). While the process to follow is strict, part of this process does involve a good bottle of Champagne (don’t skimp here!). Some of the liquid spirit is offered to the Gods by pouring it into the sea, but any that is left over is fair game for you and any friends that you may invite to the ceremony.

After the ceremony is completed, you may safely bring aboard any items that bear your boat’s name. You may also now have your name put on the transom. If you had to put the name on beforehand, at least keep it sufficiently covered until after the ceremony.

Is this just superstitious flooey for the fool-hearted? I don’t have the answer. However, I can tell you that my boat currently does not have a name on it and it won’t be revealed until after a little imbibing of some not-so-cheap Champagne!

Product Focus: Bimini Top

When referring to canvas tops, there are two basic styles. The first is typically called a “convertible top”. This attaches directly to the top of the windshield, and then stretches aft covering about half of the cockpit. More often than not, one cannot stand under this type.

The second type – and by far the most popular – is the bimini top. This style offers more protection from the sun (since it is larger than the convertible top) and is usually high enough to allow people to stand under it.

A bimini top can make a great addition to any boat. It gives you, your friends, and family a quick and easy way to get out of the hot sun, yet still enjoy being on the boat. A popular option for bimini’s are rear legs. The use of these will allow the bimini to stay in a vertical position (as pictured) when not being used, as opposed to having to lay it down into the boat where it would get in the way.

Bimini tops are available in sizes to fit just about any boat, as well as a selection of fabric materials and hardware. Installation is also very easy. A professional shop, like us, will typically charge about 1 hour of labor for this, although it can certainly be done by a DIY’er.

How To Change a Prop

Changing the propeller on your engine is an easy process that requires very little technical know-how. Just a few simple tools and you can successfully remove and replace your own prop.

Watch Dennis show us how...

Fuel Stabilization

As you get ready to put your boat to bed for the winter, don’t overlook the importance of stabilizing the fuel in your gas tank. Gasoline has a “shelf life” and only stays fresh for a short period of time before it begins to degrade and lose its’ octane rating. This process actually begins within a month. It will eventually “varnish” or “gum-up” your carburetor or fuel injection system, which will then require a costly visit to your mechanic. For that reason, it’s not a bad idea to use stabilizer year round as the gas in your tank may end up sitting for some time.

If your gas goes bad, you’ll have the added bonus of having to pump out your entire tank and properly disposing of the bad gas. Sound like fun? Not to me. My advice is to spend a few extra cents per gallon of gas and properly treat your gas all the time. Year round use will ensure that your fuel system stays clean and trouble free, offering you more on-water time.

For those that have concerns about Ethanol, all of the major brands of fuel stabilizers are offered in an Ethanol version to keep its’ ill effects at bay. Note, that the Ethanol versions do not affect the ability of the additive to stabilize the fuel.

Anti-Freeze ALERT!

SOME COLD FACTS

REGARDING NON-TOXIC ANTI-FREEZE

NOT ALL "MINUS 50" ANTI-FREEZE IS CREATED EQUAL

Over the years several diluted Anti-Freeze products have been introduced to the market containing 25-28% propylene glycol (PG). These products were originally designed for the discount retailers as a water systems price point product from which to UPSELL and were NOT recommened or intended for use in winterizing engines. These same products will be sold by some suppliers this season as being suitable for use in engines. DON'T BE FOOLED!

The ratings system for propylene glycol "Burst Points" can be somewhat misleading as different containers can have very different "burst points" (Example: copper pipe, rubber hose, and a cast iron engine have very different flexibility properties and "Burst Points"). This allows these diluted products to be legally advertised as "Minus 50" products!

It is therefore crucial for you to compare the percentage of propylene glycol in a product to obtain adequate protection for engine winterization.

A 30% blend of propylene glycol has been the minimum recommended percentage suitable for "Minus 50" protection in the Northeast when winterizing engines.

Camco Freeze Ban 50 contains 30% propylene glycol and ha been successfully used in winterizing the raw water sides of engine systems for over 25 years.

Engines are typically the most expensive portion of a boating investment. It simply does not make sense to use a substandard product in them in order to save a few dimes!

Freeze Ban 50 offers affordable high performance protection.

FOR MORE INFORMATION ON PROPERLY WINTERIZING YOUR BOAT, PLEASE CONTACT:

The Service Department of Peters Marine at 610-821-0118 or email: service@petersmarine.com

Fuel Economy - Part 2 - Boat Attitude

Yes, your boat may have an attitude! Well, at least it should. The “attitude” of a boat, generally, refers to the relationship between the bow and the stern. In other words, the boat can be running with the “bow high” or “bow low”. Adjusting the boat’s attitude can have a significant effect on its’ performance. This performance can be defined by fuel economy, speed, hole shot, even stability in rough water. As this blog is about fuel economy, I’ll limit this discussion to issues that directly relate to maximizing your fuel economy. So as to not get too confusing, I’m also going to limit this discussion to outboard and stern drive powered boats, since these are typically adjustable while the boat is running. Inboard (and some OB and stern drive) powered boats will also have “trim tabs” at their disposal, but we’ll save that for another day.

“Trimming the drive” refers to the angle of the outdrive (or in the case of an outboard engine, the entire engine). More specifically, it refers to changing the angle of the propeller in relation to an imaginary line coming straight back off the keel of the boat. Imagine a straight line being extended past the transom and compare that line to the propeller angle, or “aim”. If the propeller is aimed up (above the line) then the propeller thrust is going to lift the stern. If the prop is aimed down (below the line) then the thrust is going to push the stern down. This is also known as “Trim Up” or “Trim Down”.

Every action has an equal and opposite reaction. When the stern goes down, the bow goes up. When the stern goes up, the bow goes down. So, when you push the “up” trim button at the helm, what’s actually happening is the drive is being raised, pushing the stern down, thereby making the bow rise. Of course, the opposite happens when you push the “down” trim button.

So what does all this mean for economy? Well, more fuel is wasted while trying to get the boat on plane, than when it is actually on plane. If you can spend less time getting on plane, you’ll burn less fuel. While some boats have much better hull designs that have been engineered to provide superior “lift” or “hole shot”, you can decrease your hole shot time by always starting out with the drive completely down. This will provide maximum stern lift, thereby keeping your bow down. If you get the boat “out of the hole” faster, you are increasing your fuel economy.

Now once you get on plane, if you leave the trim down, you will also be keeping a lot of the hull bottom in the water. More hull in the water equals more drag. More drag equals less economy. Once you’re on plane, start trimming up. This will get more of the hull out of the water. You will feel the boat “lighten up” and you should also notice that the spray coming off the hull side will start to move further towards the stern. Another thing you’ll notice is that your speed – without changing your throttle setting – will go up. If you can obtain a higher speed at the same throttle setting, you are increasing your fuel economy. Now if you trim too far up, the prop will lose it’s bite in the water and will start to ventilate. Your RPM’s will shoot up very quickly (possibly over revving the engine) and speed will actually decrease. If this happens, don’t panic. Trim the drive back down and/or pull back on the throttle until the prop regains it’s bite and the RPM’s stabilize.

To wrap this up, you can increase your fuel economy via your boat’s attitude by:

-- Decreasing your hole shot by trimming down

-- Increasing your speed (at the same throttle setting) by trimming up

Once you understand the general theory, it’s actually quite simple. As mentioned above, the difference between one manufacturer’s hull design and another will also play a significant role in the economy game. However, you can increase your particular boat’s economy simply by using the trim wisely. One last thing to keep in mind is that your boat only has one forward gear. You can’t shift through 5 gears for better economy like you can in a car. This means another major factor for economy is… you! Most gas-powered boats will achieve their best fuel economy at around 3,500rpms - some a little more, some a little less as it will also depend on hull design. So if you’re constantly running your boat at high RPM’s and wondering why your fuel gauge needle moves so quickly towards “E”, now you know what (or who) is to blame. I’ll give you a hint… it’s not your boat or the engine! ;)

Fuel Economy - Part 1 - The Basics

“The Basics”

No matter if you boat on Lake Wallenpaupack, The Chesapeake, The Jersey Shore or Lake Mead, I’m sure you have at least some interest in making or keeping your boat as fuel efficient as possible. I mean, unless you like wasting your hard earned money, why not do things – some very simple – to help save a few bucks? That’s what this first Fuel Economy segment is going to be about – simple things you can do that cost little to no money.

Now, by no means do I consider myself an “expert” on fuel economy; heck, I like to “throttle down” on occasion as much as the next guy! But, there are some very easy things that we can all do to help keep a little extra green in our pockets. Below you will see what I consider the “basics”. If there is anything you’d like to add, please feel free to add a comment or two! In future segments, I will talk about the actual running and operation of the boat.

Dead Weight
Ever notice your boat goes faster with just you in it? Well, the same thing holds true for all of that extra “stuff” we all like to carry on board. The more weight in the boat, the more gas it’s going to take to get it – and keep it – going. So, take a good luck at what you have on your boat. Ask yourself, “Do I really need this?” If you can do without it, leave it on land. Every little bit helps.

Is your bottom clean?
The efficiency of a boat depends largely on its’ hull. If your boat sits in the water (let’s refer to non-bottom painted boats, for now), whether fresh or salt, things will grow on it. This can create an incredible amount of drag – it’s like trying to drive your car with one foot on the brake pedal. So, if your bottom is dirty, wipe it! Have it hauled out every so often (it’s even easier if you have a trailer) and clean it. Even if it doesn’t sit in the water, road grime can build up on it from trailering. When you wash the topside, don’t forget to wash the underside, as well.

There’s another side to the hull efficiency theme. I’ve run many boats and I can tell you that there is a real science to the engineering that goes into the design of a hull. Take two similar boats from two different manufacturers and put the same engine in them. They will not achieve the same efficiency. Some companies just slap a boat together and throw it out there for sale. Others will really take steps (sometimes painstakingly) to ensure that you’re getting your money’s worth. Trust me, it does make a noticeable difference – in performance, as well.

So there you have it. Let’s call it food for thought. Look for another segment to Fuel Economy in the near future about the actual operation of the boat and maintenance. But, in the meantime, if you have anything to add in regards to the “basics”, please don’t hesitate to comment. I’m sure there are many of you out there with great suggestions!

Galvanic Corrosion: What is it and how can we prevent it?

I was originally hoping to create a light and entertaining article about outdrive galvanic corrosion. Yet, in the end, it is corrosion. How sexy can it possibly be? Nonetheless this is an important issue that should concern ALL boaters.

First, what exactly is corrosion? Corrosion is a process of deterioration when metal components are exposed to a wet environment. This occurs both underwater and in the atmosphere. This deterioration is the process of the metal reverting to its oxide form. Steel, for example, will degrade (oxidize) back to its natural stable state – rust (iron ore).

Are you getting excited yet? If not, read on…

Galvanic corrosion occurs when two dissimilar metals (copper and steel in the example below) are connected and submersed in an electrolyte (water) whereby an electric charge is created, like a DC battery. Negative electrons from the negatively charged metal (anode) will flow to the more positively charged metal (cathode). Left alone, the charged metal will corrode away to nothing.

If protection for both types of metal is desired, then a third more active metal must be added – a Sacrificial Anode. The most common metal is zinc although magnesium and aluminum are also used. This active metal becomes the anode for both metals. In the example below, the zinc or aluminum sacrifices itself to protect the other two metals, hence the term “sacrificial anode”.

On your boat these sacrificial anodes will protect the aluminum outdrive from corroding away. Without proper protection your outdrive could look like this:

For your boat these anodes come in three common forms – zinc, magnesium, or aluminum. Zinc can be used in saltwater or heavily polluted waters; magnesium can be used in fresh – but NEVER in salt or brackish water; and aluminum, which can be used in ALL environments and last up to 50% longer. This begs the question of course, how can an aluminum anode protect my aluminum outdrive from corroding? The answer is the aluminum anode is composed of an aluminum alloy that is more anodic than the aluminum in the outdrive.

Which Anode Material is Right for Your Boat?

Zinc Anodes
Zinc is the most common material used in saltwater - like boating at the Jersey Shore or the southern end of the Chesapeake Bay. When used in freshwater, Zinc anodes can form a coating after only a few months of use. This coating can stop them from working. It is a good policy to change them regularly, even if they look OK. Remember, if an anode doesn’t wear away it is NOT working!

NavalloyTM (Aluminum) Anodes*
The Aluminum alloy used in anodes is very different from normal aluminum. It includes about 5% zinc and a trace of Indium, which prevents the build up of an oxide layer.
Aluminum alloy anodes provide more protection and last longer than zinc. It will continue to work in freshwater and is safe for use in salt water. Aluminum is the only anode that is safe for all applications. Use these when boating in the Delaware River near Philadelphia, the northern parts of the Chesapeake Bay, or acidic lakes like Lake Wallenpaupack.

Magnesium Anodes
Magnesium is the most active metal on the galvanic scale. It can be used in freshwater, but care must be exercised. Magnesium can over-protect aluminum hulls or outdrives in salt or brackish water or even polluted freshwater, causing paint to be lifted with resulting corrosion. Even a few hours immersion can cause severe damage. Many boaters on Cayuga Lake in New York State are switching to magnesium for extra protection.

You have now taken the time to protect your boat properly. You tied your boat up in the slip - ready for a season of boating - proud that you have taken the right precautions regarding galvanic corrosion. However, is the boat tied up along side of you protected? If not, why should you care?

Connecting into shore power connects your ground to neighboring boats. If those boats are not protected properly by suitable anodes, your boat will be protecting both yours and theirs resulting in a rapid wearing of your anodes.


Other factors that affect corrosion are pollutants in the water, salinity, temperature, and the presence of stray electrical currents from incorrectly wired or insulated electrical equipment onboard your boat.

I hope you found this explanation enlightening and maybe even a bit entertaining. A little basic knowledge about corrosion will ensure a long and happy relationship between you and your equipment.

Many thanks to the people of Performance Metals of Bechtelsville PA, makers of NavalloyTM Anodes, for the information and graphics contained in this article. For more information on their products, please visit http://www.performancemetals.com/

Beltzville Dock

Dennis wrote a great Blog entry on different types of Boat Fenders and Hangers.  Plus he made two great videos.  Video 1 and Video 2.  It reminded me of the boat dock at Beltzville Lake.  This is the only dock at the main launch ramp.  How well is your boat protected?

Taken August 2008 by synderella04 at Flickr.com

Are wax & polish the same thing?

When talking with customers about how to care for a fiberglass boat, I am often asked about the difference between wax and polish. The quick answer is they are used for different purposes. One can not be used in lieu of the other. Polish is used to make the gelcoat shiny. Wax is used to protect the gelcoat (fiberglass).

When applying them, start with a clean, freshly washed hull. Be sure the hull is dry before you start with wax and polish. An "applicator pad" will make applying the product much easier while at the same time using less product. Make sure you have plenty of clean towels on hand for the removal process. As soon as you feel the towel starting to get "sticky", switch to a clean section or a new towel. Don't try to make that towel last "just a bit longer". While it can't always be avoided, the best results will be had if you keep the boat out of the direct sun. A cloudy day is best, but early morning or evening can be OK, too. If you do it in the evening, just make sure you finish up before the dew starts to form on the boat.

Before you start waxing, assess the gelcoat - does it feel smooth? If it feels chalky or rough, you'll have to start with a compound - often termed Oxidation Remover. But, for now, let's assume your gelcoat is nice and smooth. The next step would be to apply the polish. This will feed the gelcoat with "nutrients" to help it retain it's shine and luster. Polish is put on and removed the same way wax is - just like you would for your car. After the polish is removed, you can put on a coat of wax to protect the shine and help keep the sun's UV rays from - yup, you guessed it - oxidizing the surface. Just like your engine, a little preventative maintenance for your gelcoat will keep it from ever oxidizing in the first place - thus saving you time and money.

Depending on how much time your boat spends in the elements and where you live, you'll want to do this anywhere between twice a year to possibly as much as a half dozen. Have you ever noticed that the hull (below the rubrail) stays looking nicer than the deck (above the rubrail)? The hull doesn't get hit by strongest, direct rays of the sun. Because of this, you may find that you want to wax the deck a little more often than the hull. The good thing is that on a typical boat, the deck has less surface area. By the way do not, under any circumstances, wax the non-skid! I think you can figure out why. Just wash it.

One last tip: don't skimp out and buy cheap wax or use what you have laying around the garage for your car. Boat wax is specially formulated for gelcoat to stand up to the harsh, marine environment - there is a difference! In the end, you'll be glad you did it right. Afterall, you've probably made a considerable investment in your boat. Spend that extra dollar or two on a reputable polish and wax to help keep your baby looking good for years to come.