Spring Boating Checklist

Well, it's finally here... warm weather! Hooray! The dreary days of winter and the cold/rainy days of early Spring are finally behind us. We find ourselves daydreaming at work about whether or not we should take the boat out for a quick spin when we get home. We talk enthusiastically with our families about spending some time on the water over the weekend. But, before we rush and make a mistake, let's take a little time to be assured that the boat really is "ready to go".

I jotted down a few essential things to review and/or check before that maiden voyage. I would also like to hear from you. What are some of the things that you do to get your boat seaworthy? If you have anything to add, please leave a comment with your suggestions. There are many people reading this blog that are new, or relatively new, boaters and would benefit from the suggestions you may have.

1) Has the drive oil been changed?

2) Has the engine oil been changed (stern drive or 4-Stroke OB)?

3) Is the battery charged and are the connections clean and tight?

4) Run the engine in the driveway before going to the water for the first time.

5) Check the trailer bearings and grease, if needed -- but not too much!

6) Check trailer lights.

7) Check the trailer's brake fluid (if equipped).

8) Don't forget the plug!!!

Well, there's a start. What else do you do?

How To Change a Prop

Changing the propeller on your engine is an easy process that requires very little technical know-how. Just a few simple tools and you can successfully remove and replace your own prop.

Watch Dennis show us how...

Fuel Stabilization

As you get ready to put your boat to bed for the winter, don’t overlook the importance of stabilizing the fuel in your gas tank. Gasoline has a “shelf life” and only stays fresh for a short period of time before it begins to degrade and lose its’ octane rating. This process actually begins within a month. It will eventually “varnish” or “gum-up” your carburetor or fuel injection system, which will then require a costly visit to your mechanic. For that reason, it’s not a bad idea to use stabilizer year round as the gas in your tank may end up sitting for some time.

If your gas goes bad, you’ll have the added bonus of having to pump out your entire tank and properly disposing of the bad gas. Sound like fun? Not to me. My advice is to spend a few extra cents per gallon of gas and properly treat your gas all the time. Year round use will ensure that your fuel system stays clean and trouble free, offering you more on-water time.

For those that have concerns about Ethanol, all of the major brands of fuel stabilizers are offered in an Ethanol version to keep its’ ill effects at bay. Note, that the Ethanol versions do not affect the ability of the additive to stabilize the fuel.

Galvanic Corrosion: What is it and how can we prevent it?

I was originally hoping to create a light and entertaining article about outdrive galvanic corrosion. Yet, in the end, it is corrosion. How sexy can it possibly be? Nonetheless this is an important issue that should concern ALL boaters.

First, what exactly is corrosion? Corrosion is a process of deterioration when metal components are exposed to a wet environment. This occurs both underwater and in the atmosphere. This deterioration is the process of the metal reverting to its oxide form. Steel, for example, will degrade (oxidize) back to its natural stable state – rust (iron ore).

Are you getting excited yet? If not, read on…

Galvanic corrosion occurs when two dissimilar metals (copper and steel in the example below) are connected and submersed in an electrolyte (water) whereby an electric charge is created, like a DC battery. Negative electrons from the negatively charged metal (anode) will flow to the more positively charged metal (cathode). Left alone, the charged metal will corrode away to nothing.

If protection for both types of metal is desired, then a third more active metal must be added – a Sacrificial Anode. The most common metal is zinc although magnesium and aluminum are also used. This active metal becomes the anode for both metals. In the example below, the zinc or aluminum sacrifices itself to protect the other two metals, hence the term “sacrificial anode”.

On your boat these sacrificial anodes will protect the aluminum outdrive from corroding away. Without proper protection your outdrive could look like this:

For your boat these anodes come in three common forms – zinc, magnesium, or aluminum. Zinc can be used in saltwater or heavily polluted waters; magnesium can be used in fresh – but NEVER in salt or brackish water; and aluminum, which can be used in ALL environments and last up to 50% longer. This begs the question of course, how can an aluminum anode protect my aluminum outdrive from corroding? The answer is the aluminum anode is composed of an aluminum alloy that is more anodic than the aluminum in the outdrive.

Which Anode Material is Right for Your Boat?

Zinc Anodes
Zinc is the most common material used in saltwater - like boating at the Jersey Shore or the southern end of the Chesapeake Bay. When used in freshwater, Zinc anodes can form a coating after only a few months of use. This coating can stop them from working. It is a good policy to change them regularly, even if they look OK. Remember, if an anode doesn’t wear away it is NOT working!

NavalloyTM (Aluminum) Anodes*
The Aluminum alloy used in anodes is very different from normal aluminum. It includes about 5% zinc and a trace of Indium, which prevents the build up of an oxide layer.
Aluminum alloy anodes provide more protection and last longer than zinc. It will continue to work in freshwater and is safe for use in salt water. Aluminum is the only anode that is safe for all applications. Use these when boating in the Delaware River near Philadelphia, the northern parts of the Chesapeake Bay, or acidic lakes like Lake Wallenpaupack.

Magnesium Anodes
Magnesium is the most active metal on the galvanic scale. It can be used in freshwater, but care must be exercised. Magnesium can over-protect aluminum hulls or outdrives in salt or brackish water or even polluted freshwater, causing paint to be lifted with resulting corrosion. Even a few hours immersion can cause severe damage. Many boaters on Cayuga Lake in New York State are switching to magnesium for extra protection.

You have now taken the time to protect your boat properly. You tied your boat up in the slip - ready for a season of boating - proud that you have taken the right precautions regarding galvanic corrosion. However, is the boat tied up along side of you protected? If not, why should you care?

Connecting into shore power connects your ground to neighboring boats. If those boats are not protected properly by suitable anodes, your boat will be protecting both yours and theirs resulting in a rapid wearing of your anodes.


Other factors that affect corrosion are pollutants in the water, salinity, temperature, and the presence of stray electrical currents from incorrectly wired or insulated electrical equipment onboard your boat.

I hope you found this explanation enlightening and maybe even a bit entertaining. A little basic knowledge about corrosion will ensure a long and happy relationship between you and your equipment.

Many thanks to the people of Performance Metals of Bechtelsville PA, makers of NavalloyTM Anodes, for the information and graphics contained in this article. For more information on their products, please visit http://www.performancemetals.com/

Propellers: Stainless or Aluminum

The two main materials used for recreational boats are either aluminum or stainless steel. While they can be used interchangeably, they do have specific purposes. Depending on the type of boat you have and what you want to do with your boat you will need to decide which material will work best for you.

Both types of material have advantages and disadvantages and some engines will really only perform well with one material or the other. A small horsepower engine (a 4cyl. sterndrive, for example) really doesn’t create enough torque to spin a SS prop as it weighs considerably more than an aluminum prop. The potential gains of the SS are negated by the fact that the engine can’t spin the prop fast enough. On the other hand, a big, high horsepower monster engine will all but require the use of a SS prop to be able to handle the high torque that the engine creates. The blades of an aluminum prop will actually deflect under the demands of engine’s higher torque, thereby rendering it much less efficient – possibly useless.

An aluminum prop has a lower initial cost and is usually less expensive to repair. However, it can also be damaged easier. While a SS prop is more expensive to purchase, it has a much longer usable life. An aluminum prop can be damaged quite easily by debris in the water or certainly by hitting the bottom; a stainless prop will more than likely chew right through sticks and other debris and not even think twice about it. It’s even possible for a SS prop to survive a light hit against rocks. A benefit that most boaters will appreciate when using a SS prop is faster acceleration, improved throttle response, more pulling power and increased fuel economy. But again, these benefits can only be realized when the engine has enough power to spin the prop efficiently.

Hitting something underwater brings up another point. What about the “shockwave” that is created by the hit and sent up through the driveshaft to your engine? Because an aluminum prop is made of softer material it will take the brunt of the hit, although it more than likely will be damaged beyond use and possibly beyond repair. A SS prop may very well survive the hit unscathed, but could send that shockwave up to your engine. However, most propellers have an internal “shock absorber” to help with this.

In the end, talking to a professional or using something like Mercury Marine’s online Propeller Selector will more than likely help to make your decision easier.

One last note: If your prop has any signs of damage – rough edges, bent blades, chips/gouges, etc. – get it repaired ASAP. Even just the tiniest amount of damage will cause the prop to be out of balance and when it is spun at thousands of RPM’s that will translate into “bad vibrations” being sent to your engine (the “shock absorber” will be of no help in this situation). Call or visit your local marine dealer or repair shop and ask about a propeller repair service.

March Madness at our Service Department

Need to get your boat ready for the season? You know it will be here before too long. 
So why not get it ready BEFORE those warm days arrive so you are ready to hit the water running!
Schedule spring maintenance on your boat or trailer for MARCH and beat the rush.
We will even give you a minimum of $50 OFF your service bill --
15% OFF if over $500.
Call our service team for details at 610-821-0118.