Do you like to “beach” your boat, but would prefer to keep the hull from being scratched? Do you ever anchor your boat when you’re close to other boaters? Stern anchoring can help in both of these situations. It will keep your bottom-side nice and shiny and also help to prevent your boat from swinging into others. If you’ve ever boated at places like Lake Wallenpaupack, Beltzville Lake or Blue Marsh Lake here in Eastern PA, you know how popular they can be on the weekends. Ensuring your boat doesn’t swing around in the wind and into another boater can give you peace of mind.
Normally, the best place to anchor is off the bow. However, if you want to keep your boat in a fixed position, you’ll need to put a second anchor in the water. Having an anchor off both the bow and stern will accomplish this.
“Beaching” the boat is a term used to describe pulling in close to shore, typically letting the bow nudge into the sea bottom. You can then hop out of the boat and set-up for a game of horseshoes on the shore edge. Some things you just can’t do very well on the water! If you want to avoid the scratches, you can let an anchor off the stern before you get to the shore. Have someone drop the anchor and then let the rope pay out until you get to your desired “closeness” to the shore. At that point, go ahead and tie-off the stern anchor. Next, someone can jump onto shore and tie a line from the bow cleat to something on shore (or use something like a dog stake). Adjust the two lines as needed for a perfect fit!
The same technique can be used while out in the middle of the lake to keep the boat from swinging. To make things easy, you’ll need two helpers for this. First, drop the anchor off the stern before you get to your anticipated anchor point. Next, pay out the rope as you go past your final anchor point to where you can drop the bow anchor. Lastly, put the boat in reverse as someone pulls in the stern rope and your other helper pays out the bow rope. When you get to the middle point between the two anchors, cleat the ropes and your done! It might sound confusing, but once you do it once or twice you’ll find it’s actually quite simple.
A little bit of advice: While stern anchoring can be a beneficial "tool" in your arsenal of weapons to help make boating more enjoyable, it should only be used in calm, protected areas. If you do this in open water, you run the risk of taking water in over the transom as the boat is not free to swing in response to wind and wave action. In open and/or rough water, only anchor off the bow. Save yourself the possibility of capsizing by stern anchoring only where favorable conditions permit it's safe use.
Thursday, April 30, 2009
Monday, April 27, 2009
Soak 'Em All!
Soak your friends with AQUA ZOOKA! This easy to operate, quick filling water bazooka is constructed of high-impact thermoplastics, and will last for seasons of fun. Simply dip AQUA ZOOKA into the water and pull back on the handle to siphon water up into the barrel. You’re ready to fire, with a range of up to 60 feet! AQUA ZOOKAs are equipped with comfortable EVA handles so that you won’t lose your grip, even with wet hands in the heat of battle! The EVA handles also ensure that AQUA ZOOKA will float on top of the water. Doubles as a bilge pump or household siphon!
OK, so I copied and pasted the above right from the AquaZooka website. Heck, I even stole their pictures! But, the truth is, these really are fun toys to have onboard – or to use at a pool or river. We sell dozens upon dozens of these every year at the store. For about $10, you can’t go wrong. The only downside is that, if you have kids, you kinda have to plan on buying one for each… and of course you’ll have to have your own!
OK, so I copied and pasted the above right from the AquaZooka website. Heck, I even stole their pictures! But, the truth is, these really are fun toys to have onboard – or to use at a pool or river. We sell dozens upon dozens of these every year at the store. For about $10, you can’t go wrong. The only downside is that, if you have kids, you kinda have to plan on buying one for each… and of course you’ll have to have your own!
Wednesday, April 22, 2009
Monday, April 20, 2009
Galvanic Corrosion: What is it and how can we prevent it?
I was originally hoping to create a light and entertaining article about outdrive galvanic corrosion. Yet, in the end, it is corrosion. How sexy can it possibly be? Nonetheless this is an important issue that should concern ALL boaters.
First, what exactly is corrosion? Corrosion is a process of deterioration when metal components are exposed to a wet environment. This occurs both underwater and in the atmosphere. This deterioration is the process of the metal reverting to its oxide form. Steel, for example, will degrade (oxidize) back to its natural stable state – rust (iron ore).
Are you getting excited yet? If not, read on…
Galvanic corrosion occurs when two dissimilar metals (copper and steel in the example below) are connected and submersed in an electrolyte (water) whereby an electric charge is created, like a DC battery. Negative electrons from the negatively charged metal (anode) will flow to the more positively charged metal (cathode). Left alone, the charged metal will corrode away to nothing.
On your boat these sacrificial anodes will protect the aluminum outdrive from corroding away. Without proper protection your outdrive could look like this:
For your boat these anodes come in three common forms – zinc, magnesium, or aluminum. Zinc can be used in saltwater or heavily polluted waters; magnesium can be used in fresh – but NEVER in salt or brackish water; and aluminum, which can be used in ALL environments and last up to 50% longer. This begs the question of course, how can an aluminum anode protect my aluminum outdrive from corroding? The answer is the aluminum anode is composed of an aluminum alloy that is more anodic than the aluminum in the outdrive.
Which Anode Material is Right for Your Boat?
Zinc Anodes
Zinc is the most common material used in saltwater - like boating at the Jersey Shore or the southern end of the Chesapeake Bay. When used in freshwater, Zinc anodes can form a coating after only a few months of use. This coating can stop them from working. It is a good policy to change them regularly, even if they look OK. Remember, if an anode doesn’t wear away it is NOT working!
NavalloyTM (Aluminum) Anodes*
The Aluminum alloy used in anodes is very different from normal aluminum. It includes about 5% zinc and a trace of Indium, which prevents the build up of an oxide layer.
Aluminum alloy anodes provide more protection and last longer than zinc. It will continue to work in freshwater and is safe for use in salt water. Aluminum is the only anode that is safe for all applications. Use these when boating in the Delaware River near Philadelphia, the northern parts of the Chesapeake Bay, or acidic lakes like Lake Wallenpaupack.
Magnesium Anodes
Magnesium is the most active metal on the galvanic scale. It can be used in freshwater, but care must be exercised. Magnesium can over-protect aluminum hulls or outdrives in salt or brackish water or even polluted freshwater, causing paint to be lifted with resulting corrosion. Even a few hours immersion can cause severe damage. Many boaters on Cayuga Lake in New York State are switching to magnesium for extra protection.
You have now taken the time to protect your boat properly. You tied your boat up in the slip - ready for a season of boating - proud that you have taken the right precautions regarding galvanic corrosion. However, is the boat tied up along side of you protected? If not, why should you care?
Connecting into shore power connects your ground to neighboring boats. If those boats are not protected properly by suitable anodes, your boat will be protecting both yours and theirs resulting in a rapid wearing of your anodes.
Other factors that affect corrosion are pollutants in the water, salinity, temperature, and the presence of stray electrical currents from incorrectly wired or insulated electrical equipment onboard your boat.
I hope you found this explanation enlightening and maybe even a bit entertaining. A little basic knowledge about corrosion will ensure a long and happy relationship between you and your equipment.
Many thanks to the people of Performance Metals of Bechtelsville PA, makers of NavalloyTM Anodes, for the information and graphics contained in this article. For more information on their products, please visit http://www.performancemetals.com/
First, what exactly is corrosion? Corrosion is a process of deterioration when metal components are exposed to a wet environment. This occurs both underwater and in the atmosphere. This deterioration is the process of the metal reverting to its oxide form. Steel, for example, will degrade (oxidize) back to its natural stable state – rust (iron ore).
Are you getting excited yet? If not, read on…
Galvanic corrosion occurs when two dissimilar metals (copper and steel in the example below) are connected and submersed in an electrolyte (water) whereby an electric charge is created, like a DC battery. Negative electrons from the negatively charged metal (anode) will flow to the more positively charged metal (cathode). Left alone, the charged metal will corrode away to nothing.
If protection for both types of metal is desired, then a third more active metal must be added – a Sacrificial Anode. The most common metal is zinc although magnesium and aluminum are also used. This active metal becomes the anode for both metals. In the example below, the zinc or aluminum sacrifices itself to protect the other two metals, hence the term “sacrificial anode”.
For your boat these anodes come in three common forms – zinc, magnesium, or aluminum. Zinc can be used in saltwater or heavily polluted waters; magnesium can be used in fresh – but NEVER in salt or brackish water; and aluminum, which can be used in ALL environments and last up to 50% longer. This begs the question of course, how can an aluminum anode protect my aluminum outdrive from corroding? The answer is the aluminum anode is composed of an aluminum alloy that is more anodic than the aluminum in the outdrive.
Which Anode Material is Right for Your Boat?
Zinc Anodes
Zinc is the most common material used in saltwater - like boating at the Jersey Shore or the southern end of the Chesapeake Bay. When used in freshwater, Zinc anodes can form a coating after only a few months of use. This coating can stop them from working. It is a good policy to change them regularly, even if they look OK. Remember, if an anode doesn’t wear away it is NOT working!
NavalloyTM (Aluminum) Anodes*
The Aluminum alloy used in anodes is very different from normal aluminum. It includes about 5% zinc and a trace of Indium, which prevents the build up of an oxide layer.
Aluminum alloy anodes provide more protection and last longer than zinc. It will continue to work in freshwater and is safe for use in salt water. Aluminum is the only anode that is safe for all applications. Use these when boating in the Delaware River near Philadelphia, the northern parts of the Chesapeake Bay, or acidic lakes like Lake Wallenpaupack.
Magnesium Anodes
Magnesium is the most active metal on the galvanic scale. It can be used in freshwater, but care must be exercised. Magnesium can over-protect aluminum hulls or outdrives in salt or brackish water or even polluted freshwater, causing paint to be lifted with resulting corrosion. Even a few hours immersion can cause severe damage. Many boaters on Cayuga Lake in New York State are switching to magnesium for extra protection.
You have now taken the time to protect your boat properly. You tied your boat up in the slip - ready for a season of boating - proud that you have taken the right precautions regarding galvanic corrosion. However, is the boat tied up along side of you protected? If not, why should you care?
Connecting into shore power connects your ground to neighboring boats. If those boats are not protected properly by suitable anodes, your boat will be protecting both yours and theirs resulting in a rapid wearing of your anodes.
Other factors that affect corrosion are pollutants in the water, salinity, temperature, and the presence of stray electrical currents from incorrectly wired or insulated electrical equipment onboard your boat.
I hope you found this explanation enlightening and maybe even a bit entertaining. A little basic knowledge about corrosion will ensure a long and happy relationship between you and your equipment.
Many thanks to the people of Performance Metals of Bechtelsville PA, makers of NavalloyTM Anodes, for the information and graphics contained in this article. For more information on their products, please visit http://www.performancemetals.com/
Thursday, April 16, 2009
Blue Marsh Lake Report
I went to Blue Marsh Lake for a meeting on Tuesday night. On my way to the meeting I did a quick pass by the Dry Brooks Boat Launch. I have good news! The docks are in the water and the water level is normal. The docks have been done correctly with cleats every ten feet and bumper guards all the way around. Good job Blue Marsh Lake!
No it's not snowing. Those are raindrops on my camera lens.
Now where’s the good weather?Tuesday, April 14, 2009
Boat Handling - Caddyshack Style
Ted found this video on boat handling -
What NOT to do Caddyshack Style. "Hey you scratched my anchor"
Thursday, April 9, 2009
Propellers: Stainless or Aluminum
The two main materials used for recreational boats are either aluminum or stainless steel. While they can be used interchangeably, they do have specific purposes. Depending on the type of boat you have and what you want to do with your boat you will need to decide which material will work best for you.
Both types of material have advantages and disadvantages and some engines will really only perform well with one material or the other. A small horsepower engine (a 4cyl. sterndrive, for example) really doesn’t create enough torque to spin a SS prop as it weighs considerably more than an aluminum prop. The potential gains of the SS are negated by the fact that the engine can’t spin the prop fast enough. On the other hand, a big, high horsepower monster engine will all but require the use of a SS prop to be able to handle the high torque that the engine creates. The blades of an aluminum prop will actually deflect under the demands of engine’s higher torque, thereby rendering it much less efficient – possibly useless.
An aluminum prop has a lower initial cost and is usually less expensive to repair. However, it can also be damaged easier. While a SS prop is more expensive to purchase, it has a much longer usable life. An aluminum prop can be damaged quite easily by debris in the water or certainly by hitting the bottom; a stainless prop will more than likely chew right through sticks and other debris and not even think twice about it. It’s even possible for a SS prop to survive a light hit against rocks. A benefit that most boaters will appreciate when using a SS prop is faster acceleration, improved throttle response, more pulling power and increased fuel economy. But again, these benefits can only be realized when the engine has enough power to spin the prop efficiently.
Hitting something underwater brings up another point. What about the “shockwave” that is created by the hit and sent up through the driveshaft to your engine? Because an aluminum prop is made of softer material it will take the brunt of the hit, although it more than likely will be damaged beyond use and possibly beyond repair. A SS prop may very well survive the hit unscathed, but could send that shockwave up to your engine. However, most propellers have an internal “shock absorber” to help with this.
In the end, talking to a professional or using something like Mercury Marine’s online Propeller Selector will more than likely help to make your decision easier.
One last note: If your prop has any signs of damage – rough edges, bent blades, chips/gouges, etc. – get it repaired ASAP. Even just the tiniest amount of damage will cause the prop to be out of balance and when it is spun at thousands of RPM’s that will translate into “bad vibrations” being sent to your engine (the “shock absorber” will be of no help in this situation). Call or visit your local marine dealer or repair shop and ask about a propeller repair service.
Both types of material have advantages and disadvantages and some engines will really only perform well with one material or the other. A small horsepower engine (a 4cyl. sterndrive, for example) really doesn’t create enough torque to spin a SS prop as it weighs considerably more than an aluminum prop. The potential gains of the SS are negated by the fact that the engine can’t spin the prop fast enough. On the other hand, a big, high horsepower monster engine will all but require the use of a SS prop to be able to handle the high torque that the engine creates. The blades of an aluminum prop will actually deflect under the demands of engine’s higher torque, thereby rendering it much less efficient – possibly useless.
An aluminum prop has a lower initial cost and is usually less expensive to repair. However, it can also be damaged easier. While a SS prop is more expensive to purchase, it has a much longer usable life. An aluminum prop can be damaged quite easily by debris in the water or certainly by hitting the bottom; a stainless prop will more than likely chew right through sticks and other debris and not even think twice about it. It’s even possible for a SS prop to survive a light hit against rocks. A benefit that most boaters will appreciate when using a SS prop is faster acceleration, improved throttle response, more pulling power and increased fuel economy. But again, these benefits can only be realized when the engine has enough power to spin the prop efficiently.
Hitting something underwater brings up another point. What about the “shockwave” that is created by the hit and sent up through the driveshaft to your engine? Because an aluminum prop is made of softer material it will take the brunt of the hit, although it more than likely will be damaged beyond use and possibly beyond repair. A SS prop may very well survive the hit unscathed, but could send that shockwave up to your engine. However, most propellers have an internal “shock absorber” to help with this.
In the end, talking to a professional or using something like Mercury Marine’s online Propeller Selector will more than likely help to make your decision easier.
One last note: If your prop has any signs of damage – rough edges, bent blades, chips/gouges, etc. – get it repaired ASAP. Even just the tiniest amount of damage will cause the prop to be out of balance and when it is spun at thousands of RPM’s that will translate into “bad vibrations” being sent to your engine (the “shock absorber” will be of no help in this situation). Call or visit your local marine dealer or repair shop and ask about a propeller repair service.
Monday, April 6, 2009
Beltzville Dock
Dennis wrote a great Blog entry on different types of Boat Fenders and Hangers. Plus he made two great videos. Video 1 and Video 2. It reminded me of the boat dock at Beltzville Lake. This is the only dock at the main launch ramp. How well is your boat protected?
Thursday, April 2, 2009
Philly, via the Delaware River
Where are some interesting places to boat? If you are new to boating, or even if you’re a veteran, you may wonder the same thing. Well, just sit right back and you'll hear a tale, a tale of a fateful trip. OK, so maybe it should be a tale of a not-so fateful trip…
There are actually quite a few places to trailer a boat to that are close to the Lehigh Valley. There are many local lakes and even the Jersey shore is not that far away. However, something that often gets over looked is the Delaware River. Typically, my family and I will make 2 or 3 trips a year to Neshaminy State Park – it is only about an hour away from Allentown, just a short distance off rte. 276. They have a very nice boat launch with 6 lanes and it drops into deep water. In fact, they have two launches, but the free one is much smaller and launches directly into the river. If you are boating in anything other than small, aluminum boat, take my advice and use the pay ramp. The small ramp is muddy and you are launching directly into the river’s current. The pay ramp is well worth the money.
Once we get on the river, we usually head south as Philly is only a 30-minute boat ride away at that point. The main point here is that we are going into Philly by boat! It really is a beautiful ride down the Delaware and once we get there we can buzz up next to the USS New Jersey – now that’s a boat! Then we either dock right at Penn’s Landing or even at Dave & Buster’s! When we dock at Penn’s Landing, there is a crosswalk that takes you right to South Street – an absolutely fabulous place to walk around. Have you ever tried to drive around, let alone park, in downtown Philly with a car? By boat is a much more enjoyable and relaxing experience. That’s what boating is all about – relaxing and enjoying life with family and friends. When my family and I walk around, I tend to gravitate towards the multitude of quaint places to eat and drink, while my wife seems to always end up at all of the places to shop at! I look forward to these day trips every year, as they are always enjoyable.
Get out there and make some memories!
Enjoy,
Dennis Galligani
There are actually quite a few places to trailer a boat to that are close to the Lehigh Valley. There are many local lakes and even the Jersey shore is not that far away. However, something that often gets over looked is the Delaware River. Typically, my family and I will make 2 or 3 trips a year to Neshaminy State Park – it is only about an hour away from Allentown, just a short distance off rte. 276. They have a very nice boat launch with 6 lanes and it drops into deep water. In fact, they have two launches, but the free one is much smaller and launches directly into the river. If you are boating in anything other than small, aluminum boat, take my advice and use the pay ramp. The small ramp is muddy and you are launching directly into the river’s current. The pay ramp is well worth the money.
Once we get on the river, we usually head south as Philly is only a 30-minute boat ride away at that point. The main point here is that we are going into Philly by boat! It really is a beautiful ride down the Delaware and once we get there we can buzz up next to the USS New Jersey – now that’s a boat! Then we either dock right at Penn’s Landing or even at Dave & Buster’s! When we dock at Penn’s Landing, there is a crosswalk that takes you right to South Street – an absolutely fabulous place to walk around. Have you ever tried to drive around, let alone park, in downtown Philly with a car? By boat is a much more enjoyable and relaxing experience. That’s what boating is all about – relaxing and enjoying life with family and friends. When my family and I walk around, I tend to gravitate towards the multitude of quaint places to eat and drink, while my wife seems to always end up at all of the places to shop at! I look forward to these day trips every year, as they are always enjoyable.
Get out there and make some memories!
Enjoy,
Dennis Galligani
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